#FoodieFriday Christmas would not be Christmas in Portugal without Bacalhau!

For this week’s #foodiefriday, I decided to focus on Bacalau (salted cod) because in Portugal, Christmas is not Christmas without it. I don’t know why, because it is as stiff as a board, smells disgusting, and looks about as appetising as the prospect of munching on cardboard. In fact, it’s so stiff that it has to be cut into pieces using a band saw when you buy it! Bacalhau also has to be soaked for about 3-4 days (changing the water twice a day) to remove the salt before it can be cooked.

So much effort, so why is bacalhau so popular and eaten at Christmas in Portugal?

In Portugal, the tradition of eating bacalhau on Christmas Eve goes back several centuries. Christmas Eve was once a Catholic fasting day, when meat was not permitted, so families turned to fish. Salted cod became the natural choice because it kept well, could be transported inland, and was affordable for most households.

Over time, this practical solution turned into a custom. By the 18th and 19th centuries, bacalhau with boiled vegetables had become the standard Christmas Eve meal in many regions. In the 20th century, the tradition was further reinforced when the Portuguese state promoted cod as a symbol of national identity.

Although Portugal no longer fishes much cod itself, the custom remains. Today, bacalhau at Christmas is valued less for necessity and more for continuity, memory, and a sense of shared heritage.

In fact, bacalhau is SO popular that you can buy a recipe book which has 1000 recipes.

After trying a couple of recipes, I decided that soaking fish and remembering to change the water was too much hassle when I was introduced to pre-soaked frozen Bacalhau, called “Riberalves”. For me, that was a game-changer, and now I love it!

A few tips on buying Bacalhau from a Portuguese friend.

Especial and Graúdo refer to category/size of the fish, not the pieces
– Especial is high quality, big and expensive
– Graúdo is big. Miúdo refers to the small ones.

Asa branca – usually also expensive – is whiter and, according to a relative, better, but a colleague whose parents sold bacalhau said that was a myth and that it is whiter simply because the skin has been taken off.
Noruega – Bacalhau from off the coast of Norway and is generally considered the best.
Lombo/meio – the best cuts of the fish
Barbatanas – the fins (quite thin)

My reaction to uncooked bacalhau was mirrored when my French in-laws tried our traditional English mince pies!

This Christmas Eve, I plan to cook Bacalhau com Natas. (Cod in Cream Sauce) Our favourite! The recipe, as supplied by a Portuguese blogging friend in Australia, Sami’s Colourful World, can be found here:

Bacalhau com Natas (Cod in Cream Sauce)

What is your typical menu plan for Christmas Eve or Christmas Day?

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