Folar da Páscoa – Traditional Portuguese Easter Bread
I don’t have any pictures of Easter Bunnies or Easter Eggs, so hope a picture of Folar da Páscoa will suffice.
I’d planned to drag Mr. Piglet along to a Folar da Páscoa festival today. However, as it’s being held outside and the weather is SO awful I will have to wait until next year! Mr. Piglet breathed a BIG sigh of relief! First time I’ve heard him cheer because it’s raining.
Related posts
Folar da Páscoa
Cataplana
Since moving to Portugal one of my favorite meals, when we eat out, is a fish stew (Caldeirada) but the type which is cooked and served in a copper dish called a Cataplana. As you can see from my photograph the dish has two hinged clam-like shells which are clamped tightly together during cooking. Researching the origin of the dish Wikipedia states the Cataplana was invented by Armando Luz (1927-2002), however other sources such as www.lecreuset.co.uk and www.recipes4us.co.uk informs us the Cataplana was first introduced to the Algarve by the Moors in the 8th Century, during their occupation. Help I’m confused!
Usually, when I see Cataplana de Peixe on the menu it’s for two people so I was delighted to discover the Don Sebastian restaurant in Lagos served single portions! Mr. Piglet is not keen on fish stew and even less so since eating Caldeirada which contained fish lips; the type of fish that looks like its lips have undergone a Botox operation. It made us laugh because the lips were not attached to anything and just yawned at him when he spooned some of the stew onto his plate. Then when he discovered some white hard round things which our friend informed him were the fishes eye balls, Mr. Piglet nearly evaporated on the spot!
CATAPLANA DE PEIXE
Cataplana recipes
Trawling through recipes on Google and YouTube ingredients can include anything from pork and clams to fish and seafood etc.
Recipe and Video for Cataplana in English from http://how2heroes.com
AND
But not as we know it!
Perhaps looking at this photograph you would be forgiven for thinking the shot was taken in the heart of the country, and not in a small town in the Western Algarve.
Everyday life in the Algarve, but not as we know it!
When I captured this moment it was if I’d stepped back in time to another era and a totally different way of life in Portugal. I wonder how he feels about the changes to his everyday life. Are they better or worse?
Burro and cart in Portugal
What changes he must have witnessed after the Carnation Revolution in 1974, yet his life, to an outsider, seems unchanged. Did he resist change or is he trapped by poverty?
A new way of life merges seamlessly with the old
This post was inspired by the WordPress Weekly Photo Challenge this week’s theme is “Everyday Life”
The theme for this week’s WordPress Weekly Photo Challenge is “Wrong”.
I often reflect on the heated and ongoing debate about the traditional spectacle of bullfighting which is popular in several countries including Spain and Portugal. While some people refer to bullfighting as an “Art” others refer to it as “Sport”. Either way should people inflict pain on an animal in the name of sport or art?
Is it wrong?
As we drove through Spain we saw the iconic silhouettes of the Osborne Bull erected in prominent locations such as on hillsides or on the vast desolate plains. I did not appreciate the size of the bulls until, inspecting this photo more closely, I spotted the people below!
The iconic silhouette of the Osborne Bull in Spain
Originally created as part of an advertising campaign to promote Veterano brandy the iconic bull has over time been adopted as the unofficial emblem of Spain and used on many touristy items. I wrongly assumed these bulls symbolised bullfighting, but fortunately they do not (thank you Mr. Google)!
What a magnificent animal so why “bullfighting”?
Please share your opinion either “for” or “against” in the comments section below. I would be grateful if you would also take a moment to vote in the poll below – it will be interesting to measure my readers view.
Bullfighting in Portugal – Image from Wikipedia
Want to know more about bullfighting?
Check out Bullfighting on Wikipedia
A few weeks ago we returned to Praia do Vale dos Homens to show friends the pair of white storks we’d discovered nesting on an outcrop of rocks. As we drove through the back streets of the sleepy village of Rogil we noticed a group of elderly men gathered on some waste ground.
What are they doing we wondered...
Some were pacing up and down, and then bending down as if to examine something, while others sat on an assortment of old chairs and upturned boxes watching intently.
Curiosity got the better of us so we stopped the car to observe proceedings from a discreet distance. As you can see from the photograph the men are congregating round an arrow-straight concrete strip about 20 meters long.
The men are congregating round an arrow-straight concrete strip about 20 meters long.
Some of the men were holding two square metal discs with rounded corners which they then slid/threw with more force than precision (to my untrained eye) along the strip of concrete to dislodge a wooden pin situated at the far end.
I was fascinated, and even, almost, but not quite, plucked up courage to ask one of the spectators the name of the game they were watching. This is where I become so cross and frustrated with myself becuase I lack courage confidence in using my limited Portuguese. So I sat in the car taking photographs instead. Even my friend felt frustrated by my lack of courage, took my camera and positioned herself to take a unobscructed photograph of the concrete strip.
The moment I returned home I plagued Mr Google for answers. Nothing!
Well what did I expect using such a vague search term as “Portuguese men playing a game with metal discs”. I then emailed a couple of Portuguese subscribers who comment on my blog. Result – they thought the name of the game was Jogo da Malha.
Jogo da Malha, or Jogo de Chinquilho as it is called in some areas of Portugal, is a traditional Portuguese game reported to date back to the 15th Century.
Jogo da Malha - Pino (Meco) and Mesh
The game is played on a hard surface, and as you can see from the photographs of the game we observed, there is a long concrete strip sprinkled with what looks like sand or fine grit. A wooden pin called a meco is set up at the far end of the track and the players slide/throw a metal disc (mesh) to knock down the pino (meco). Please note the game does vary in that I have noticed in most photographs on other websites there is not a concrete strip, just hard ground. The discs may also be thrown and in some cases even stones are used.
I struggled with translation issues to find information I could use concerning the rules as they seemed to vary. I smiled because when I used Google translate for some text I was presented with
Player or team that knock down the stick a time will be able to still obtain that to another one sweater thrown stay more near to the stick that the of the adversary, being able to in that case earn 3 points; THE Player that knock down the stick twice will obtain 4 points; case the sweaters that They knocked down the stick they stay
more near to this that the of the adversary, will earn 6 points. The stick after knocked down is put once again in the same small farm where was, small farm that that previously should be designated.
However, I eventually struck lucky and found a website advertising a Jogo da Malha tournament. Unfortunately since I last visited the site a few weeks ago, my anti-virus software is now alerting me the site poses a security threat and is unsafe.
Rules of the game
(as far as I can tell)
There appears to be so many variations to the rules across the country that I’ve taken an overview from a Portuguese organisation who have organised a Jogo de Malha tournament.
* Each team consists of two players and each game consists of two teams. The players have two meshes each.
* The meshes are 9.5cm with a weight of approximately 1.3kg. The mecos are approximately 20cm high and 5cm diameter
* The minimum distance between the pinos (mecos) is 12 mtrs with a maximum of 16 mtrs
* A perpendicular line one mtere in front of the pini (meco) will mark the zone of launching the meshes
* Each player has two meshes which they throw alternately to topple the meco and leave as close as possible.
* When the meco is toppled they gain 4 points for their team
This part became lost in translation:
“after the four meshes plays, they get closer to the pino (meco) sum 2 points, and a team scoring 4 points if your two fabrics are the closest of meco, being the partner of the player whose fabric won the points who will first and third releases of meshes, and so on”
* The first team to achieve 30 points wins the game.
* Each match consists of a maximum of five games.
A friend in Northern Portugal advised
In some areas this is called Jogo de Malha
In my area it’s called Jogo de Chinquilho & has different rules
Same disc are used back & forwards between both playersNeed a fairly hard surface – 2 pins at a distance from 12-18 meters
1 Player each end with a round metal disc
Whoever plays 1st has 2 disc’s & they throw to knock over pin.
Pin down 2 points – nearest to Pin 1 point
If ONE player get’s both discs very close to the Pin without knocking it over they count as 2 points each
Game finished when 1 player reaches 31 points
Rules seem rather complicated ?
I try, but to be honest sometimes researching a topic using only Portuguse websites is like trying to do a doublesided sky jigsaw puzzle. (I only have the edges and corners for clues)
If anyone has any further information about this game I would love to know more.
I was given a wonderful surprise present this afternoon – my own Piggy Assador de Barro!
Pig Assador de Barro
It’s really cute. Thankyou so much!
What unexpected presents have you received recently?
Related post: An Assador de Barro is NOT a Portuguese Toast Rack
For many years I believed the clay dishes sold by the Artesanos in Portugal (Pottery shops) were toast racks. Yes, toast racks! I pondered over the design of these strange dishes, as you would, and decided Portuguese “toast racks” were extremely impractical as they would not hold many slices of toast.
Well what else could they be?
Several years later, my friend whose husband is Portuguese, laughed when I shared my thoughts. She then looked at me in sheer disbelief when she realized I was actually serious…
Like an adult to a child she kindly explained – they are a special clay dish to BBQ Chouriço Sausage.
“Really?”
BBQ Chouriço Sausage on a Assador de Barro
Ingredients
All you need are some Chouriço Sausages (Portuguese) - (Chorizo Sausage is a Spanish sausage) – another lesson learned and some Aguardente - Portuguese grape brandy or Bagaço which is the homebrewed Aguardente.
How to use the Assador de Barro
* Pour some Aguardente or Bagaço into the bottom of the Assador de Barro
* Prick the Chouriço Sausage with a fork and place on dish.
* Set light to the Aguardente and cook chouriço sausage for a couple of minutes each side.
Enjoy!
Apparently, Aguardente is used instead of Medronho because Medronho affects the taste of the sausage.
You can buy Chouriço Sausage from Supermarkets, local markets, butchers etc
Chouriço Sausage
To be honest, I won’t be rushing out to buy an Assador de Barro as I am not keen on the taste of the Chouriço Sausage which seems to be a common ingredient in several traditional Portuguese recipes.
Armed with the name of the clay dish I tried to research its history on the internet but nada – the most useful or unuseful information was the translation which was “Roaster from Clay” and “Meat grills of mud”.
I am curious to learn more about the history of the Assador de Barro - how they came to be invented, by whom and why.
I’ve always been intrigued by the brightly coloured cockerels (roosters) that are for sale in all the souvenir shops here in Portugal. Why are they so popular? Curiosity finally got the better of me so I decided to do a little research.
Galo de Barcelos
The brightly coloured rooster is called the Galo de Barcelos and is one of the national symbols of Portugal. Apparently the Galo de Barcelos symbolises honesty, integrity, trust and honour; everyone should have one in their house to bring them luck. Artesanatos (pottery shops) and tourist shops are filled with the brightly coloured Galo de Barcelos rooster souvenirs such as pottery models, printed tea towels, table cloths and key rings to name a few. So when you visit Portugal you can’t return home without one!
I was discussing this very point with my French son-in-law and he informed me France also used the cockerel “Le Coq Gaulois or the Gallic Rooster” as one of their national symbols. I was not sure whether he was joking when he said
“It was because it was the only bird that could stand with both feet in the “pooh” and still crow about it”
Hmmm I wonder?
Sorry I digress…So how did the Galo de Barcelos become the symbol of Portugal?
The legend of the Galo de Barcelos has been passed from generation to generation and while there the stories differ, the ending is always the same.
These two are my favourite:
A pilgrim from the Spanish Province of Galiza was passing through the town of Barcelos when a crime was committed. The authorities, not having any other suspects arrested the pilgrim and sentenced him to be hanged. The pilgrim asked to see the magistrate who had condemned him in order to plead his innocence. An audience was granted and the pilgrim was taken to the magistrate’s house while he was having a banquet. However, despite the pilgrim’s desperate please the magistrate remained unconvinced as to his innocence.In a desperate attempt the pilgrim pleaded again and then pointed to a magnificent roasted rooster on a silver platter waiting to be served to the guests.
“Lord God” said the pilgrim “as Peter, your servant denied you at the cock’s crow, would that you show my innocence as your humble servant by this cock’s crow?”
Much to everyone’s amazement the cock came to life and started to crow and the pilgrim was immediately released.
An alternative ending….
In desperation the pilgrim pointed to the roasted rooster on the banquet table and said
“As surely as I am innocent will that rooster crow if l am hanged!”
The guests and the magistrates roared with laughter at the pilgrims claims and he was led away to be hanged. The guests, however, lost their appetite for the rooster and it remained untouched on the platter. The hangman applied the noose and as the pilgrim was being hanged the rooster stood up and began to crow. Realising he had made a grave error the magistrate rushed from the table to stop the hanging. Luckily the noose was faulty and the pilgrim survived and was released.
Many years later the pilgrim returned to the town of Barcelos and erected a monument to the Virgin and St James (San Tiago).
The great thing about legends passed from generation to generation is the stories do vary. I thought it was an interesting idea not only to share the story, but also share the alternative endings – which do your prefer?
Please share the legend behind your country’s national symbol
Other Portuguese legends: How to make Soup from a Stone
Bacalhau looks about as appetizing as the prospect of munching on chipboard
Try as I may, I just can’t understand the Portuguese passion for Bacalhau. Why is it so popular when there’s such a wonderful selection of fresh fish readily available and far cheaper?
It’s as stiff as a board, smells disgusting and looks about as appetizing as the prospect of munching on chipboard. In fact, it’s so hard it has to be cut into pieces using a band saw when you buy it! Bachalau, also has to be soaked for about 3-4 days, (changing the water twice a day) to remove the salt, before it can be cooked. So much effort so what is the reward? Piglet is on a mission to discover the answer…
For the uninitiated, Bacalhau is the Portuguese word for dried and salted codfish (Bacalhau fresco is unsalted cod)
Bacalhau is as ingrained in the Portuguese food culture as Fish and Chips is to the English, Frogs Legs to the French, Curry to the Indians and Haggis to the Scots. It’s so popular I even found a recipe book “1000 Bacalhau Recipes” displayed in the supermarket.
A THOUSAND RECIPES the mind boggles!
Bacalau a "thousand recipes" the mind BOGGLES!
I have previously tried to cook it myself, but to be honest it was so salty that we had to consume vast quantities of water for the next 48hrs to “rehydrate”! I think in all honesty I did not soak it long enough so maybe I ought to at least give it another shot.
Historically, the Portuguese started fishing for cod in the waters of Newfoundland shortly after Columbus discovered America. The cod-fish were processed and salted on the boats to preserve them until they returned to Portugal. Only then, were the fish dried in the sun and sold, either to the locals or passing ships for use on their long voyages. The nickname of bacalhau is ‘fiel amigo’ (faithful friend).
So why is Bacalhau so popular?
One of the reasons why Bacahalau became so popular, over the centuries to become a staple of the Portuguese diet, was due to the fact that Portugal, as a Catholic country, were influenced by the church who forbade the eating of meat on religious days. Bacalhau was readily available and therefore eaten instead.
I have also discovered that if the prospect of soaking fish for days on end does not appeal to me (which it does not) I can buy pre-soaked Bachalau which is called “Riberalves” . In fairness, before I dismiss Bacalhau from our diet altogether I should at least experiment further and try a couple of recipes.
A few tips on buying Bacalhau from a Portuguese friend.
Especial and Graúdo refer to category/size of the fish, not the pieces
- Especial is high quality, big and expensive
- Graúdo is big. Miúdo refers to the small ones.
Asa branca – usually also expensive – is whiter and, according to a relative, better, but a colleague whose parents sold bacalhau said that was a myth and that it is whiter simply because the skin has been taken off.
Noruega – Bacalhau from off the coast of Norway and is generally considered the best.
Lombo/meio – the best cuts of the fish
Barbatanas – the fins (quite thin)
Tip: the tail of real bacalhau is V-shaped. Don’t be fooled.
My next quest is to find some delicious recipes – any suggestions please?
Bacalhau recipes I have tried:
http://pigletinportugal.com/2011/08/20/bacalhau-com-natas-cod-in-cream-sauce/
“Fado cannot be explained, it must be felt and experienced”
(quote from http://www.fado.com)
Mariza - "terra" Concert, Lagos
The word fado I am told means fate but the music portrays a far wider range of emotions from love, betrayal, sorrow, death, hopelessness, passion and more – in truth all the emotions we feel and can relate to. I personally believe fado to be music of the soul.
My first experience of fado music was at a fado evening organised by one of our local restaurants. I remember my introduction to fado like it was yesterday. It was a male soloist who both sung and played the traditional Portuguese guitar. Although I could barely speak a word of Portuguese, the voice like an instrument portrayed heart-felt emotions of great sadness. I am embarrassed to say as the fado artist started to sing the tears rolled down my cheeks, unchecked. Transfixed and totally almost in a trance – I was not expecting such emotion…
We happened to be guests of a Portuguese man and when he saw how much I appreciated the music he politely asked my husband if he could buy me the Fado artist’s CD. He was unemployed at the time and despite my protestations he presented his gift with pride. I accepted with humility and the seeds of my passion for fado were sown. I went on to buy several CD’s and I was soon to discover, like most music, quality and style varied considerably! I then stumbled across Mariza.- I was totally hooked and bought a couple of her CDs!
Mariza sings with great passion!
Mariza is an international star performing in major concert halls all over the world. The quality of her voice and the range of emotions she portrays, through the music, leave you spellbound. She was definitely someone I wanted to see live in concert and experience the atmosphere first hand.
You can imagine my sheer delight when someone brought to my attention Mariza was performing at the Auditório Municipal de Lagos (amphitheatre) not a million miles from where we live, and tickets were only €20. We were immediately on the phone to the Cultural Centre who was selling the tickets – just praying that we could book them making ourselves understood using just our “pigeon Portuguese. The phone call was painless and the girl spoke perfect English. Expecting to be asked for our credit card details we were amazed to reserve two tickets with only our name for reference. They would hold them for collection until 24 hrs before the concert. Hubby and I were incredulous!. We both felt it was too easy. In fact, we were convinced something had been lost in translation so we were not convinced until we rushed down to the Cultural centre to collect them. Holding the tickets in our hands the concert suddenly became a reality.
The evening of the concert was hot and airless – thank goodness the concert was held outside. We had already been warned to bring along cushions to sit on, as the seating consisted of rows of concrete benches. Although the concert did not start until 22.00 we arrived just after 21.00 as seats were not pre allocated. Sitting in a central location we had a brilliant view but surrounding seats were quickly taken, so lucky we arrived early! However, we were amazed that there were still so many empty seats by the time the concert was due to start! Still it was nice to have a little room as you certainly did not want any bodily contact with your neighbour – it was just to hot! Saying this just as the concert was starting, a couple of Portuguese ladies tried to squeeze in and wanted us to all to move up like sardines! What a cheek! They arrived late and wanted some of the best seats in the house. A Portuguese man a few seats along from us gave them their marching orders and pointed to all the empty seats elsewhere.
Mariza walked onto the stage and her presence immediately stilled the audience with expectation. She started to sing with such raw passion, you felt the music in your soul and the very fibre of your being.
She was accompanied by 4 musicians, two guitarists – one playing the traditional Portuguese guitar, keyboard player and a drummer. Initially I was not sure about the drummer but I have to concede he did add depth to some of the more upbeat songs. He was a brilliant musician and entertainer in his own right and entertained us with a brilliant solo performance while Mariza took a brief rest.
Music is the language of love and fate.
These are the words to one of the songs she sang that evening plus I have found a recording of the song. ENJOY!
O Gente Da Minha Terra
O Gente Da Minha Terra
É meu e vosso este fado
Is both mine and yours this fado
destino que nos amarra
destiny that tides us (together)
por mais que seja negado
no matter how much it is denied
às cordas de uma guitarra
by the strings of a guitar
Sempre que se ouve um gemido
whenever one hears a lament
duma guitarra a cantar
of a guitar singing
fica-se logo perdido
one is instantly lost
com vontade de chorar
With a desire to weep
Ó gente da minha terra
Oh people of my land
agora é que eu percebi
Now I’ve understand
esta tristeza que trago
This sadness which I carry on
foi de vós que a recebi
Was from you that I received
E pareceria ternura
and it would seem tenderness
se eu me deixasse embalar
If I let myself be soothed
era maior a amargura
my anguish would be greater
menos triste o meu cantar
my singing (would be) less sadder
Ó gente da minha terra
Oh people of my land
Mariza is certainly taking fado to the world stage and attracting a wider audience. We look forward to her next concert!!
WHY IS FADO LIKE MARMITE? You either love it or hate it!
Who is your favourite Fado singer?
CategoryPortugal Holidays
